The ghetto of all backpackers, the Paharganj Market in Central Delhi was my weekend getaway. Well, I do want to call it a getaway, as I had the time of my life, walking through its mystic alleyways, and narrow streets. Located right next to the New Delhi Railway Station, this main bazaar stretches for roughly a kilometer.
It may seem chaotic, noisy, loaded with ancient crumbling buildings, yet this market holds a charm, that is so unique to Delhi. It’s impossible not to bump into people, animals, rickshaw pullers, or all of them at the same time here. And that’s why I say Paharganj is not for the faint of heart.
There is a bit of history to this place- similar to so many other places in Delhi. During the times of the Mughal Empire, Paharganj was an important suburb. Located just outside, the Ajmeri Gate of the walled city, it was one of the five main markets of Delhi, and the only one outside the walled city. It happened to be the principal grain market during the 17th century, apart from being a centre for collecting taxes for the emperors.
Today this vibrant market is favored by backpackers, foreigners and budget travelers, who reside either in the nearby Ramakrishna Ashram or in the multitude of cheap hotels in the narrow street. The main Bazaar lane is lined with shops on both sides with books, music, bags, clothes, statues, handicrafts, jewelry, incense, mehendi … name it and you get it here. A number of shops deal in wholesale stuff and also export to other countries. Thus, you could find some of the best bargain shopping in Delhi here.
For Book Lovers
The Jacksons book store in Paharganj sells books at discounted prices. Though a tiny little crammed shop, he sells books in more than 10 languages.
Commonly patronized by Paharganj’s foreign backpackers, you would find an entire rack dedicated to Lonely Planet.
The owner Deepak Kumar Dilani, with his immense knowledge of books, could recommend some great titles for you, and if he isn’t busy with a customer he would take you to his warehouse in the adjacent alley with racks and racks of books. I was tempted to bargain, but Mr. Dilani seemed a tough one to crack and I quietly picked up my books at the price he quoted, which did seem reasonable to me.
Inexpensive Jewelry and Handicrafts
You could find a bewildering variety bangles, beaded necklaces, brass earrings here. Hundreds of them in these little stores are a visual delight in its own sweet way. I was amazed at the sheer variety each of these stores had to offer.
Plenty of handicrafts too of Gods, brass wares and decorations.
Jhootis
I call them the comfortable Indian Ballerinas. You could get a whole variety here. From Jaipuri, Kolhapuri or the mojris from Punjab. I realized I could get them for a lesser price than picking them up from their respective places.
Mehendi
The earliest of mehendiwalas exist in this area, probably due to the proximity to the station. I found them to be the most cost effective. Charges were nominal from 100 to 1500 as per the design you choose.
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the feel of these streets is amazing… so lively and colourful. Loved reading about Paharganj
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Yup. I loved my stroll down the lane, Full of life
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The last time I visited Delhi, I did not have a great experience.
But I’ve heard the local shopping scene is really good. Maybe next time
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Delhi could be quite tough at most times on most peaople. Extremes in weather and extremes in peaoples temperament. But overlook these and your expereinces could be one of a kind.
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This place sounds like Commercial street or Church street in Bangalore, right down to the bookstore with the knowledgable owner! Ah, Blossoms
I have been to Delhi once, way way back. Always heard a lot about the shopping fun although I must confess I don’t shop much as a rule
It made for a lovely virtual walk through one of Delhi’s alleys, so thank you!
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Sort of .. But paharganj is mroe interesting with its crumbling historic buildings, the firang crowd from the ashram, so the shops have an interesting mix of things such as incense sticks, aroma stuff etc…. and the stuff you get are really really cheap..It is great to just walk down paharganj!!! you should plan a Delhi trip sometime!
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Love it!
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YEs HEma, this place is a visual sight, despite the congested lanes and the crowd around!
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My kind of market. Marking it for my next visit😀
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