“All names of people have been changed to protect their identity.”

Rewari is a small district in the south of Haryana, around 50 odd kilometers away from the National Capital. I met Balbir Hooda and his wife Poonam Devi here. Richard and I were out on our weekly field trip when we met them. Courteous and extremely hospitable, the couple invited us over for lunch in their modest home, overlooking a paddy field. Haryana is blessed with cattle wealth, and this was visible in the lunch served. Hot parathas (handmade flat bread) soaked with homemade “tindi ghee” (clarified butter), with a generous helping of vegetables and lentils. Haryanvi meals are almost always finished with a tall glass of buttermilk popularly called “Chaaj”.

Afternoon siestas are mandatory after a meal as sumptuous as this. Low lying “charpoys” are laid out under the tree. A cool breeze sways across, rocking almost anybody…